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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.